Part II: Salzburg
From Vienna, we took a lovely three hour train journey west to Salzburg, a much smaller city of just 150,000 people. The train was easy and scenic but driving from Vienna to Salzburg is also a great option as there are many places to see and stop along the way.
Outside of Austria, Salzburg is famous as the setting of The Sound of Music and there are many sites in and around the city that are featured in the film. In Austria, the city is well known as the birthplace of Mozart, and for the Salzburg Festival, a music and arts festival attracting visitors from around the world every July and August to enjoy fabulous opera, concerts and theatre.
WHERE TO STAY
- Goldener Hirsch – I had the opportunity to stay at the Goldener Hirsch on my visit and absolutely loved it. The hotel dates to the 1400s and is located right in the center of Salzburg’s Old Town. The entire property just recently underwent a thorough renovation and the result is a historic hotel that retains much of its charm and authentic design as a Salzburg country inn, while also incorporating many modern luxuries (think USB ports by the bed and motion-detection lighting).
- Hotel Sacher Salzburg – The sister property of the Sacher Vienna, the Salzburg property is currently undergoing a facelift in its main areas (full renovations will be done by Spring 2020). The design here differs quite a bit from the Sacher Vienna, featuring a lighter, brighter palette with cool grays and whites. The location is perfect – set on the riverbank, directly across from Old Town. Definitely spring for a room with a river view – some even have small balconies.
WHAT TO DO:
- Salzburg Festival – This famed arts and music festival will be celebrating its Centennial in 2020. Running for 6 weeks in July and August, the event draws performers and arts enthusiasts from around the world.
- Hohensalzburg Fortress – Perched high above the city, the fortress was built in 1077 by one of the Prince Archbishops of Salzburg and took nearly 600 years to complete. Take the funicular up to enjoy beautiful panoramic views of the city or wander through the museum. For a special evening, you can enjoy a Mozart concert in the fortress.
- Helbrunn Palace – Just outside the city limits, this former residence is famous for its trick fountains!
- Mozart Birth Place & Mozart Residence – Classical music fans can visit the home where Mozart was born, located in Old Town Salzburg. Just across the river, you’ll find another Mozart Residence where he moved with his family at the age of 17. This building now houses a museum with various artifacts from Mozart’s life.
- Old Town – Salzburg is an extremely old city, and you’ll still find this historic appeal in Old Town. Visit the Salzburg Cathedral and pass through the Mozart square to shop the winding pedestrian streets.
- Sound of Music Tours – Sound of Music tours are extremely popular in Salzburg as the movie was based here. Tours visit a variety of filming sites, including: Mirabell Gardens, Leopoldskron Palace, Nonnberg Abbey, the Wedding Church, and Mondsee Cathedral.
WHERE TO EAT
- M32 on Moenschsberg Mountain – Take an elevator up through the mountain to the modern art museum where you’ll find this restaurant with spectacular city views.
- Restaurant s’Herzl – Located in the Goldener Hirsch hotel, this cozy, casual restaurant has been operating since 1569 and features Austrian home cooking favorites.
- Café Tomaselli – Austria’s cafe culture extends far beyond Vienna and Cafe Tomaselli is the most famous cafe in Salzburg. Located in Old Town, the cafe has been run by the Tomaselli family for over 150 years.
- Zirbelzimmer – In the Sacher hotel this wood-paneled restaurant overlooks the Salzach river and serves gourmet Austrian cuisine in a rustic setting. Be sure to order the famous Salzburger Nockerl for dessert!
- St. Peter Restaurant – Touted as one of Europe’s oldest restaurants (dating to 803!), this is the best spot in town for fine dining.
If you can tack on an extra few days to your trip, I highly recommend spending them in the lake district just outside of Salzburg. With bright blue water, soaring mountains and Austrian chalets dotting the landscape, this is a side of Austria you don’t want to miss.
WHERE TO STAY
- Schloss Fuschl – Built in 1450 as a hunting lodge for the Archbishop of Salzburg, Schloss Fuschl became a hotel in 1945 and was renovated in 2006. The setting on the lake is perfect and many rooms enjoy a beautiful view. The castle suites, which are located in the original lodge building, are my favorite for their lake views and the feeling of stepping back in time.
WHAT TO DO
- Visit the Salt Mines – Salzburg is aptly named after the “white gold” which is naturally found in the region. Salt was highly prized in olden times as a way to preserve food, as well as add flavor to cuisine. There are several salt mines in the surroundings of Salzburg that can still be visited today, the most famous being Hallein.
- St. Gilgen – This town was home to Mozart’s mother and later to his sister. Make sure you stop in at Cafe Dallmann, a famous family-run coffee shop that has been in operation for 70 years.
- St. Wolfgang – From St. Gilgen, you can take a scenic boat ride across Lake Wolfgangsee to St. Wolfgang, a quaint pilgrimage town.
- Hiking around Lake Fuschl and Salkammergut Region – There are many, many hikes in the region. Whether you’re staying at Schloss Fuschl and want to set out for a hike around Lake Fuschl or want to venture farther afield, you’ll find plenty of opportunities to enjoy the nature.
- Zwolferhorn Mountain Cable Car – From Saint Gilgen, you can take a cable car up Zwolferhorn Mountain for beautiful views of Lake Wolfgangsee and the Salkammergut Region.
- Hallstatt – A little further afield, you’ll find Hallstatt, the picturesque lakeside village that has become Instagram famous over the past few years. While it is now a bit overrun by tourists, its still worth a visit – just be sure to arrive quite early in the day.
- Silent Night Chapel – In Oberndorf bei Salzburg, this small chapel is a monument to the famous Christmas Carol which was first sung in a former church on this site in 1818.
WHERE TO EAT
- The Fishery – At Schloss Fuschl you’ll find two restaurants. The Fishery is a more casual option and perfect for a light lunch. Located lake-side, many of the fish smoked and served here are caught from the lake.
- Schloss Restaurant – The more gourmet dining option at Schloss Fuschl serves up modern Austrian cuisine with beautiful views of the lake.
- Forsthaus Wartenfels – About 15 minutes’ drive from Schloss Fuschl, you’ll find this most traditional Austrian chalet. Note: If you’re looking to order the fondue, you’ll need to call in and order ahead.
- The Dorfalm on Lake Wolfgangsee – If you happen to take the boat from St. Gilgen to St. Wolfgang, this is another excellent restaurant to enjoy traditional, casual Austrian fare over lunch or dinner.
All in all, Austria was a magical place – I was so impressed by the architecture, the food, the history and the kindness of the people. I would absolutely love to share this country with you and help you plan your next trip to Austria. Please contact me to get started!